Grill opens

The timing was right.

Finally.

Ryan and Kelly Johnson were driving en route to a camping trip when Kelly’s phone rang. It was Rock Fuqua of Fuqua Chrysler Dodge Jeep RAM.

In the back of her mind, Kelly was hoping her husband had surprised her with the Jeep she had been dreaming of. Fuqua had a different dream in mind.

That dream became a reality Monday when the Johnsons opened Glass Capital Grill in Dunkirk.

“We’re pretty excited,” said Kelly. “I’ve said it like a thousand times, but it just happened so fast. …

“You work at something for so long and you’re just making baby steps. And then, when you think it’s done because of this pandemic … all of a sudden you get a phone call and you’re rocketed …”

The Johnsons had been working toward opening HoosierBoy Smokehouse and Brew in the east 100 block of Main Street in Portland since 2018.

That restaurant and brewery was slated for the Stevens Building, which was in need of significant renovation. The process of getting everything, from funding to plans to permits to line up took time.

They were ready to go, Kelly said, this spring. Then, coronavirus.

The pandemic forced them to take a step back.

Then, opportunity called.

“Everybody has told us all along, ‘It’s God’s timing,’” said Kelly. “Everyone has been really supportive. … When it’s meant to happen, it happens.”

With previous operator “Gunner” Roesly ready to leave what was then Glass Capital Café at 126 E. Commerce St. in Dunkirk, Fuqua, who owns the property, was looking for someone to take over. A friend suggested the Johnsons, so he reached out.

“I was looking for someone specific. There were certain things that I wanted,” said Fuqua, noting their energy and entrepreneurial spirit. “And those people are hard to come by.

“This has been their dream. …

“I saw that. I saw the work ethic.”

Over the course of the last month, the Johnsons have been working to make the space their own.

They added wainscoting to the walls and redid light fixtures. They put in a full bar — the restaurant has a full liquor license — and Ryan built the bar back. With help from Ashley Knapschafer of The General Store in Pennville, tin from the ceiling of the old Dunkirk firehouse was repurposed as a backsplash. They also replaced some of the kitchen equipment.

Perhaps the biggest single project has been outside, where there will be an outdoor dining area east of the restaurant. It will include a center bar with a glass feature, one of several nods to the city’s connection to the glass industry.

“This patio is going to be cool, man,” said Ryan. “I know we’re only going to be able to use it for six, seven months out of the year, but still.”

It’s also helpful during the pandemic, he added, as it allows space to spread out.

While the restaurant is brand new, the Johnsons’ partnership with their chef is not. They’ve been working with Janet Turner of Muncie for about two years, having handled catering events together. They also won the “Best of Festival” award for their “hogwings” at the 2018 Jay County Food & Drink Festival.

Turner, who has led Madhouse Catering and has worked at a variety of area restaurants and catering firms, said her style of cooking comes from being surrounding by men — her husband, sons and nephews.

“I do down-home cooking,” she said. “I can do anything, but I love down-home cooking.

“That’s what I like. I like to see people go away full, and happy.”

So the dinner menu features items like country style steak and gravy, bone-in pork chops and meatloaf. There will be sandwiches, burgers and salads for lunch time, and the full breakfast menu includes platters — among them are The Hoosierboy and The Hoosierbaby, both of which feature biscuits and gravy, eggs and home fries — and omelets.

Glass Capital Grill has even worked with Darrin and Eleathia Harding of nearby Sculpt Fitness, which opened last year on a few health-conscious menu items. The restaurant will also offer grab-and-go meals and salads.

And, in keeping with the HoosierBoy idea, the Johnsons will have several regional craft beers on tap in addition to national brands.

Like its predecessor, Glass Capital Grill will be open for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday. It will also open back up for dinner from 4 to 11 p.m. Thursday and Friday.

That all got started this week, with doors opening to the public Monday following a soft opening Aug. 20 for invited guests.

“It’s exciting,” said Ryan. “It’s very exciting. …

“It’s the finish line. We’re there.”