Nostalgic option

It’s both more than a grocery store and less than a grocery store.

At Jalisco Mexican Store across from city hall in downtown Portland, you won’t find aisle after aisle of frozen food or a meat counter or a wide variety of fresh produce.

Then again, you’d be hard-pressed to find a sombrero or boots or corn husks at your average supermarket.

Catering to the area’s Hispanic community, Jalisco focuses on foods and spices — especially spices — that can prompt nostalgia for family meals in Central America.

For non-Hispanic cooks, the store is a treasure trove of hard-to-find speciality items.

“We see Guatemalans, Hondurans, all kids of Hispanics,” said Mariana Gutierrez. “But anybody’s welcome.”

A tour of the store’s shelves makes it clear this is not your average grocery:

•Cans of pickled jalapeno peppers.

•Abundant supplies of black beans and chick peas.

•Hot and spicy menudo.

•A bin full of fresh limes and another bin full of peppers.

•Brand-name Mexican cookies and candies.

•Dozens of kinds of dried chiles.

•Corn husks for tamales.

•And, if you’re lucky, freshly made tacos to go.

Mariana’s mother, Valvina Gutierrez, has owned the store at 316 N. Meridian St. since 2006.

“She’s always been a single mom,” said Mariana, “providing for us and helping us go to college.”

A Jay County High School graduate, Mariana recently received her bachelor’s degree in social work from Indiana University-East in Richmond and is considering pursuit of her master’s.

Valvina, who understands English well but is less confident about speaking it, came to the U.S. when Mariana was 3. The family first settled in Greenville, Ohio, because of family connections. But a childhood health problem forced them to move to Durham, North Carolina, so Mariana could receive treatment.

Seven years later, with Mariana’s health issues resolved, they returned to the Midwest. It was then that Valvina, herself a cancer survivor, took over the reins at Jalisco.

“Everything’s different” when compared to a typical U.S. grocery, said Mariana, who continues to be involved in the store’s operation. To stock the shelves, the family depends upon suppliers in Indianapolis and Fort Wayne for specialty items.

Jalisco Mexican Store is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sundays and 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. every other day with the exception of Wednesdays, when it is closed.